Use your block, don’t do your block and make that pattern work for you!
This is about a Designer Vogue Pattern 1331 DKNY (Donna Karan New York)
that was too small for the person who wanted to make it and wear it the next day.
Spoiler alert - She did!
Bruce is an Ambassador for Movember
Please note there was no special diet or extreme body shrinking underclothes worn to accomplish this result.
**Do your block is an Australian and New Zealand slang - to become angry
The Vogue pattern says Size 12. That’s right size 12! Well it is a 1990’s pattern and I was a size 12 in the ‘90’s but that my sewing friends, is not the case anymore.
Those 80’s & 90’s patterns have a very strange effect on me. My heart races and I feel giddy whenever I catch sight of them. The Love has not died. In fact it has endured for more than 30 years. It must be true love.
Do you have a collection of Designer patterns that still make your heart flutter? I can’t be the only one with this affliction! Tell me in the comments below who are your favourite Designers from Vogue Patterns and are they still on your to-do list?
So what can I do to make this Vintage Vogue 1331 DKNY (Donna Karan New York) size 12 sewing pattern, wearable for me?
Well going on a diet is definitely not an option, as my body shape has changed and I really want to wear it tomorrow!
Let me tell you about how I used my Dress Block/sloper as a short cut, to make this size 12 pattern fit my now more mature, fuller figure to wear the next day. Nothing like a dash of deadline sewing to help me stay focused. I was aiming for a 10.30pm finish and it was already past 1pm and I hadn’t even selected my fabric yet.
Focus Anne and get cracking.
The journey from Fabric to wearing the Wrap Coat
The Measurements
Let’s look at the measurements we are dealing with here
My Measurements compared with the pattern
Vogue 1331 ……………….My Dress Block
Bust 92cm ………………. Bust 107cm
Dart - No …………………. Dart - Yes
Waist 71cm ……………… Waist 92cm
Hip 97cm………………… Hip 113cm.
Sleeve length long ….…. Sleeve length 55cm
Pattern fabric suggestions include: - wool jersey, matt jersey or interlock stretch fabric
The Fabric requirements
The pattern envelope for size 18 says …. 2.7 Metres/ 2 7/8 Yards for 150cm / 60 inches width. I normally use a size 20 so I am going to need about 3 Metres.
Even though I started this project at 1pm I didn’t find the perfect fabric until 4pm tick, tick, tick!
The fabric I settled on was this printed scuba. Way back in 1994 (when this pattern was released) … scuba had not yet hit the fabric stores.
I love the colours and the irregular shapes.
By using the Stretch ruler on the pattern envelope, with 10cm of width wise, folded scuba, confirmed the scuba passed the stretch test & returned to its original size and shape! Yay!
PRE Cutting
After looking at the cutting layout I realised I needed to get cracking, as every pattern piece had to be cut on the bias as a single layer of fabric… and WARNING I needed to remember to flip the pattern for the arm pattern piece (or they’ll be calling me Lefty instead of Annie)
There is a lot of cutting on the bias … which means …. make sure the print is going in the direction I want.
Time to Bring on the Block Shortcuts!
What is a block?
A Basic block has no seam allowance, is a personal template, is used for making patterns and used as a fitting shortcut with commercial patterns. My Basic block is drafted based on my body measurements. I am using my sleeve & dress templates.
Now is not the time for me to get pernickety with grading up to size 20. I’m after the vibe of this wrap tunic and the lines of this tunic confirms they will be fine. Placing the patterns over my front and back dress blocks lets me see where the front edges finish and I’m feeling good and more confident now (the wrap-over will keep me covered)!
This vogue pattern does not have bust darts but my Block is already equipped with the darts I need - I want this Tunic to fit well. My darts give me the amount of fit I need without the FBA (full bust adjustment) fuss.
Ah .. the Bodice wrap front layout and print choices
The Right side of the wrap. I have aligned the centre front of my Block along the Centre front of the pattern
Now while I’m looking at the front pattern pieces I can see that grading the hem and front opening can be a quick job. As I’m cutting the front I need to increase and amalgamate with the original pattern piece. I have placed my dress block along the centre fronts to show me where the width needs to be increased … Not surprising it was at my waist.
Aligning my block under the pattern piece and along the centre front on the left side, to see if there will be enough coverage for modesty. Check!
A close up of the lovely pleat on the left underside of the wrap
Now is the time to consider how I want to place the print .. I want eyes to travel up to my face so the print direction for both right and left sides of the wrap front checked. Print placement diagonally going from right knee up to left shoulder.
Showing the front of the Tunic with all the top stitching
Now for the BACK
I made sure that the direction of the print was pointing up, at the centre back seam, before I cut it out.
My Dress back block takes into account my sway back - no fabric pooling
Centre back seam /\ print direction is North
Sleeve time
Big difference!
Did people have arms this long in the ‘90’s?
We were going to be at a sit down luncheon, so these long sleeves would have been a hazard! Reaching for the potatoes may have resulted in me scooping up much more than I intended to eat..
Righto sleeves cut … bit of a bonus I remembered to flip the pattern piece too
Sleeves cut ✔️
Getting closer to the finish line now
The tie belt
I’ve decided I will have the tie only from the edge of the right front side and attach the other tie on the left side seam to tie the wrap. I didn’t want the tie belt to go around my back and just for fun made the ties 2 different lengths.
Secret to successful sewing
TNT 🧨 patterns are fantastic but …
Taking a great style in a wrong size and having the confidence that it WILL fit, because of my block / your block is a game changer. This is what makes sewing so much fun for me and so exciting.
Vogue 1331 DKNY 1993
This wrap has a very dramatic shaped hemline which I adore. I also love the pattern pleating just under the bust. I love that I have added darts by using my bodice block .. I’m going for the full adventure leaving the trying on until after I’ve finished sewing.
Yes the thrills and no spills (this time) to add a bit of suspense to the whole sewing ride!
Sewing was easy on my My Bernina 335 and Overlocker Bernina 1300MDC
IT’S 11.15pm & I’m done
Feeling elated I tried the wrap tunic on and showed Bruce (patient husband) he gives the nod of approval.
Yippee it’s a goer
The next morning I put it on with my Stylearc Margaret pants & comfortable shoes (there would be quite a bit of walking and standing during the afternoon)
Feeling that “I’ve just made the deadline” vibe
Assessment time
Yes I say, yes this has definitely turned out better than I expected.
I felt fabulous and appropriately dressed for the luncheon event celebrating Movember 20th anniversary. Helping Men Live Longer
Vogue DKNY designer pattern I’m glad I made the time to make you!
I may not be a size 12 anymore but with my trusty block I was able to enjoy wearing a pattern that’s been on my sewing list for a long time.
Why not make your own time saver blocks using the Pattern Drafter?